Superlift FAQ

Q. How can I find out if my state has any laws regarding lift systems?
A. The best place to find out if any laws exist regarding lift height in your state is to contact the state's Department of Motor Vehicles. Due to the different regulations that states cover lift height under (bumper height, frame height, headlight height, etc.), it is impossible for Superlift to keep track of them all.

Q. How will a lift kit affect my new vehicle warranty?
A The Specialty Equipment Market Association, a trade group that works on behalf of aftermarket performance manufacturers, has a complete list of your rights regarding warranties and aftermarket equipment. Generally speaking, the dealer can only refuse warranty work if they can prove that the aftermarket part has caused the problem.

Q. What is the benefit of the Superunner steering kit?
A. Superunner steering kits for TTB Fords offer dramatic improvements in handling and drivability over the stock steering system when used with most 4" to 6" lifts.

Q. How will lifting my truck affect the driveshafts?
A. Driveline correction methods are incorporated into virtually all of Superlift's suspension systems. For example, our rear lift blocks are tapered to rotate the axle pinion upward to reduce driveline angle and eliminate vibration. Our replacement springs have a tapered degree shim attached, where applicable, to accomplish the same thing. Rolling the pinion upward also restores some shaft spline contact. Generally, shafts must not be lengthened unless the suspension lift height is over 6". Unless specifically noted, there is normally no need for replacement or lengthened driveshafts when the lift components are installed properly.

Q. Why is the suggested amount of rear lift less than the front lift on most of your truck kits?
A. The vast majority of non-modified pickups set about two inches high in the rear when empty. This is so the truck's rear end will not be excessively low when the truck is loaded. With most people that lift their rigs, towing and load carrying is not a priority - lifted performance, tire clearance, and vehicle "look" are the primary issues. A more level stance is desired, and extra room is needed on the front, so the tires can clear the fenders when turning. Also, a more even front-to-rear attitude improves an unladen vehicle's weight distribution which generally improves its handling when not carrying a load. Note that on most applications you have the option of altering rear lift height and /or method.

Q. Will I need to change shocks when installing a body lift?
A. No. Since a body lift does not change the distance between the vehicle frame and the axles, new shocks are not a "gotta do" when installing a body lift. Be aware though, that most standard factory shocks are cheesy at best, and last about as long as a Mike Tyson pay-per-view fight. The same applies for factory steering stabilizers. Check the condition of the mounting bushings, and the cylinders for signs of fluid loss.

Q. What are the pros and cons of blocks, add-a-leafs, or leaf springs?
A. Lift blocks - Blocks simply space the springs away from the rear axle and are the most economical way to lift the rear of a truck. Ride quality and spring strength / flexibility are unaffected because the stock springs are retained. However, blocks will increase the springs' tendency to wrap-up when under hard acceleration and load. Trucks that are good candidates for blocks must already have satisfactory spring strength, must not be used extensively for heavy hauling or towing, and are not already equipped with tall factory blocks.

Add-a-leafs - Rear add-a-leafs, commonly used in conjunction with blocks, are a good lower-cost alternative to replacing the stock rear leaf springs. They combat spring / axle wrap-up by beefing-up the spring and reducing lift block height, or by eliminating blocks altogether. Both full-length and overload replacement types are offered (see add-a-leaf application charts for more information). Add-a-leafs do increase rear spring rate, so the rear of the vehicle will feel slightly more stiff than stock. Stock springs with add-a-leafs are the preferred choice if the vehicle is used for towing / hauling.

Replacement Springs - These are the answer for vehicles with broken or extremely fatigued stock springs, or for vehicles registered in states that limit or exclude the use of lift blocks. All of Superlift's replacement rear springs have Superide design characteristics. Expect ride quality to be slightly firmer than stock. Consider that when called upon to haul additional weight, most replacement springs will initially "squat" more rapidly than stock springs. Since replacement lift springs have more arch, they must compress more before their bottom overload leafs engage.

What works best for you boils down to vehicle type, its condition and how it is used.

Q. Why can't lift blocks be used at the front axle?
A. Using lift blocks on the front is never a good idea because: 1. When used on the front axle, blocks are subjected to increased side loads when cornering, which can cause them to fail by "rolling out" from under the springs. This, in turn, will cause loss of vehicle control. 2. Most blocks are tapered. If the tall end is installed facing towards front-of- vehicle, it worsens caster angle; if the tall end faces rear it worsens driveshaft angle. 3. Most factory front springs are fairly weak. Blocks increase the leverage load on these already weak springs which really compounds spring / axle wrap-up.

Q. Why does my vehicle need steering correction components with a lift?
A. Steering linkage spans the distance between the vehicle's steering sector, at the frame, and the steering knuckles, that are located where the front tires / wheels attach. Linkage operating angles increase as lift height does. Increased steering linkage angles can cause poor handling characteristics such as bump steer, wandering, and / or darting. In severe angle situations, tie-rod end stud bind and failure can occur. Stud bind is when linkage operating angle exceeds the tie-rod's ability to pivot. "Rule of thumb" is that vehicles with a 4" or taller suspension lift require some sort of steering correction. For more information, refer to the steering section for your specific vehicle.

Q. What is Superlift's warranty?
A. It is a Limited Lifetime Warranty. In summary, it covers the original purchaser (you) for as long as you own the vehicle the product is installed on (normal wear items excluded). For the entire legal mumbo-jumbo version, see the Warranty Page

Q. How complicated is the installation?
A. Installation time and complexity varies greatly from application to application. Generally speaking, lifting a vehicle with Independent Front Suspension (IFS) is more involved than lifting a vehicle with solid axles front and rear. To get a general idea of the amount of time required to install a specific lift, go to the Product Installation Time Guide.

Q. I'd like to lift my vehicle, but have heard that the vehicle will wander the road while driving.
A. A properly lifted and aligned vehicle steers fine. Most wandering, darting and other bad handling traits can be traced to problems with alignment, tires and / or steering component wear. Loose suspension or steering system fasteners is also a common culprit. On your friends Ford, the most common problem is a caster angle that is too negative. Caster alignment on this family of Fords is corrected by installing radius arm lowering brackets and / or degreed C-bushings.

Q.Is there a dictionary of technical terms regarding suspension?
A. Yes. Refer to Super Speak... a Glossary of 4-Wheel Drive and Superlift Terminology.

Q. Do I need to have my truck aligned after installing a lift?
A. The need for front-end realignment following the installation of a lift varies according to make, model and suspension design. Even if an alignment is not required, it should be part of your regular maintenance regimen to ensure proper handling and tire wear.

Q. Can I lift my IFS truck by adjusting the torsion bars?
A. Yes... sort of. Unless the bars are overloaded (due to the presence of a winch, snow plow, etc.), it is possible to gain one inch or so of lift by adjusting-up the factory torsion bars. There are potential problems though, that center around the lack of suspension extension travel. When the bars are adjusted-up too high, the upper control arms continuously top-out against their travel stops. This creates a very harsh ride, and accelerated suspension component wear. Also, the vehicle may not have adequate adjustment for alignment. Superlift recommends that you refer any suspension adjustments to a qualified mechanic.

Q. How will the lift system affect my vehicle's ride quality and handling? How much less stable will it be?
A. There are more variables here than there are Clinton jokes. So many things influence the above, for example: basic suspension type * lift type and height * tire type, width and air pressure * wheel / rim width and offset * vehicle curb weight and weight distribution * and the list goes on. The bottom line is that drivability traits will change, but the degree of change varies. On vehicle stability, the general rule is: "the taller a vehicle, the easier it will roll over", but conversely, it is not unusual for moderately lifted vehicles with moderately taller and wider tires / wheels to be as stable or more stable than their stock counterparts. The key is to take time to learn these new capabilities and limitations, and to drive responsibly.

Q. Why can't I find a taller lift for my truck?
A. As suspension lift designers, we must take what the factory design gives us. For example, an older leaf sprung General Motors pickup can be lifted up to 12", and depending on its running gear, feasibly run the largest tires. But, because of its factory design, the newer versions (1988 and newer) of the same General Motors truck is not receptive to being lifted in excess of 6" to 7". Its steering linkage and front IFS axle is considerably lighter-duty than its solid axle predecessor, and does not hold up well when exposed to tires in excess of 36" tall. Generally speaking, if Superlift does not offer a system as tall as you think you need, you shouldn't go there.